{"id":156,"date":"2015-05-16T22:51:00","date_gmt":"2015-05-16T20:51:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/?p=156"},"modified":"2025-08-27T10:07:59","modified_gmt":"2025-08-27T08:07:59","slug":"death-valley-udolie-smrti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/death-valley-udolie-smrti\/","title":{"rendered":"Death Valley – \u00dadolie smrti"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Druh\u00fd, dlho pl\u00e1novan\u00fd vrchol na\u0161ej cesty. Po\u017ei\u010danie plnokrvn\u00e9ho offroadu Jeep Wrangler na cel\u00fd de\u0148 a spoznanie najzauj\u00edmavej\u0161\u00edch miest tohoto \u00fadolia, kde teplota be\u017ene ide na 40 a viac stup\u0148ov a v lete sa tam nechod\u00ed v\u00f4bec. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po super dni v Zione, sme sa ve\u010der presunuli do meste\u010dka Pahrump, kde sme mali ubytovanie. Cel\u00fd ve\u010der sa niesol v o\u010dak\u00e1van\u00ed nasleduj\u00faceho d\u0148a v Death Valley. A tak\u00e9 boli aj sny v t\u00fa noc. Teda aspo\u0148 tie moje. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

R\u00e1no vyr\u00e1\u017eame pod\u013ea pl\u00e1nu a len s p\u00e1rmin\u00fatov\u00fdm me\u0161kan\u00edm parkujeme pred po\u017ei\u010dov\u0148ou Jeepov. S\u00fa tam toti\u017e \u00faplne norm\u00e1lne asfaltky, ale tie najzauj\u00edmavej\u0161ie miesta s\u00fa pr\u00edstupn\u00e9 len po, s\u00edce spevnen\u00fdch, ale \u0161trkov\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa pln\u00e9 kame\u0148ov. Ani tak netreba 4×4 pohon ako pneumatiky odoln\u00e9 vo\u010di prierazu a e\u0161te aj podhusten\u00e9. Po\u017ei\u010diavame si Jeep, podpisujem papiere, poistku a dost\u00e1vam asi 5 min\u00fatov\u00fa in\u0161trukt\u00e1\u017e. Plus mapu a vysvetlenie ako pou\u017e\u00edvat GPS BACON – m\u00e1 dve funkcie: cez sateli\u0165 zavola\u0165 technika, ak sa pokaz\u00ed auto alebo priamo alarmova\u0165 pol\u00edciu a z\u00e1chranku ak d\u00f4jde k zraneniam ohrozuj\u00facim \u017eivot. V celej oblasti toti\u017e nie je \u017eiadny sign\u00e1l. Asi by sa im tie vysiela\u010de upra\u017eili na slnku. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Prv\u00fd cie\u013e – Titus ka\u0148on<\/strong>. Po nejak\u00fdch m\u00ed\u013each asfaltu kon\u010d\u00edme na \u0161trkovej ceste. Idem asi 10-15 m\u00ed\u013e za hodinu (vyn\u00e1sob 1,6 a m\u00e1\u0161 to v km\/h). Auto neskuto\u010dne trasie a rezonuje. Prid\u00e1vam na 30mph. Zrazu sa stabilizuje a u\u017e len buchoc\u00fa n\u00e1pravy. Celkom pohoda. Takto buchotaj\u00fac ideme asi hodinu. Potom sa cesta za\u010d\u00edna k\u013eukati\u0165 do kopca a prech\u00e1dzame cez tzv. \u010cerven\u00fd priesmyk. To pod\u013ea farby zeminy a kame\u0148ov. Zastavujem a fot\u00edme sa. Po polhodine doraz\u00edme do ka\u0148onu. Je fakt \u00fazky a vysok\u00fd. Obrovsk\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitok. N\u00e1\u0161ho z\u00e1vozn\u00edka posielame nepred pe\u0161o, aby n\u00e1m urobil nejak\u00e9 pekn\u00e9 video z prejazdu. Podarilo sa. Prejazd ka\u0148onon za nami, vych\u00e1dzame zo sk\u00e1l na planinu posiatu kame\u0148mi. Namiesto p\u00f4dy je v\u0161ade piesok. Zastavujem, oddych aspo\u0148 p\u00e1r min\u00fat. Bolo to \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Druh\u00fd cie\u013e – Ubehebe k\u0155ater<\/strong>. Pokra\u010dujeme k nemu po asfaltke. V ka\u0148one sme nestretli \u017eiadneho \u0161trk\u00e1\u010da a tak si pochva\u013eujeme \u017ee zatia\u013e dobre. Inak je pr\u00ed\u0161ern\u00e1 zima, len 20\u00b0C. St\u00fapame na men\u0161\u00ed kopec, st\u00e1le po asfalte a zrazu sme priamo na vrchole kr\u00e1tera. F\u00faka tak\u00fd siln\u00fd vietor, \u017ee sa tam ned\u00e1 st\u00e1\u0165. \u010clovek \u013eah\u0161ej kon\u0161trukcie by mohol nedobrovo\u013ene skon\u010di\u0165  v \u0148om. Kr\u00e1sne vidno jeho vulkanick\u00fd p\u00f4vod. Cel\u00e9 okolie je z tmavosiv\u00e9ho piesku, \u010do je dos\u0165 kontast k farbe zbytku \u00fadolia ktor\u00e1 je sk\u00f4r svetl\u00e1, a\u017e priam biela. Vyprahnut\u00e1. Vid\u00edme cesti\u010dku po okraji kr\u00e1tera a aj t\u00fa na jeho dno, ale neodva\u017eujeme sa ani na jednu. Rad\u0161ej sad\u00e1me do auta a pokra\u010dujeme. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tret\u00ed cie\u013e – Racetrack Playa<\/strong>. \u010co to tak asi m\u00f4\u017ee by\u0165? Vyschnut\u00e9 jazero, ploch\u00e9 ako doska. Rozdiel v nadmorskej v\u00fd\u0161ke vedzi jeho koncami (mysl\u00edm \u017ee s\u00fa od seba vzdialen\u00e9 viac ako 2km) je len 2 centimetre. Tak\u017ee rovina. A predsa po nej chodia kamene. \u00c1no. A nech\u00e1vaj\u00fa za sebou stopu. A keby len to. Chodia v r\u00f4znych smeroch. Aj proti sebe. Ich pohyb nevidno, s\u00fa statick\u00e9, ale otla\u010dky, resp. stopa za nimi hovor\u00ed za v\u0161etko. Existuj\u00fa te\u00f3rie ako to vlastne je. Ale neexistuje lep\u0161\u00ed sp\u00f4sob, ako sa na ne pozrie\u0165. Z\u00e1\u017eitok. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vr\u00e1tim sa e\u0161te k ceste k nim. \u0160trkov\u00e1, s vo\u013ene pohoden\u00fdmi kame\u0148mi ve\u013ekosti p\u00e4ste. Ak si mysl\u00edte \u017ee va\u0161e SUV to zvl\u00e1dne, tak omyl. Zvl\u00e1dne, ale bude v\u00e1m to trva\u0165 3-4 hodiny (1 cesta) a e\u0161te dostanete defekt. My sme zvl\u00e1dli cestu tam za 1,5 hodiny a nasp\u00e4\u0165 za 45 min\u00fat. Cca 37 m\u00ed\u013e po hnusnom \u0161trku. Miestami piesok. Poriadne auto je nutnos\u0165 a Jeep Wrangler, \u010do sme si po\u017ei\u010dali, bola skvel\u00e1 vo\u013eba. Miestami som \u0161vihal aj 50mph kde by „s\u00fakromn\u00e9“ SUV predbehla aj korytna\u010dka. Aj tu sa potvrdilo \u017ee pri vys\u0161ej r\u00fdchlosti to trasie menej. Svojim autom by som tadia\u013e ne\u0161iel. Ur\u010dite nie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na z\u00e1ver sme sa e\u0161te boli pozrie\u0165 na najni\u017e\u0161ie polo\u017een\u00e9 miesto na kontinente, 85,5 metrov pod \u00farov\u0148ou mora. Badwater Basin<\/strong>. Tie\u017e miesto kde sa dlho nezdr\u017e\u00edte. Ani \u017eiadny in\u00fd \u017eivot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vr\u00e1tili sme Jeep, sad\u00e1me do svojho SUV a pokra\u010dujeme \u010falej. Smer Lone Pine<\/strong>. Av\u0161ak e\u0161te jedna zast\u00e1vka cestou k\u00fdm opust\u00edme \u00dadolie smrti. Pri pieso\u010dn\u00fdch dun\u00e1ch. Nakr\u00facalo sa tam nieko\u013eko filmov. Aj sc\u00e9ny z Vojny hviezd. Naozaj to tam tak vyzer\u00e1. F\u00faka pomerne siln\u00fd vietor a ned\u00e1 sa tam dlho post\u00e1va\u0165. Ale sc\u00e9na ako z filmu. Atmosf\u00e9ra. Z\u00e1\u017eitok. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Op\u00fa\u0161tame \u00dadolie smrti. S pr\u00e1zdnou n\u00e1dr\u017eou. Toti\u017e z hladiny mora sme museli vyst\u00fapa\u0165 do v\u00fd\u0161ky skoro 2000 metrov a n\u00e1\u0161 5.7L motor si cucol po\u010das 100 m\u00ed\u013e polovicu n\u00e1dr\u017ee. Na\u0161\u0165astie navig\u00e1cia hl\u00e1si o 8,3km benz\u00ednov\u00fa pumpu. Bola tam. Dokonca fungovala. Za 1 gal\u00f3n chc\u00fa a\u017e $5,50 tak tankujeme len za $20 aby sme do\u0161li k \u010fal\u0161ej pumpe. Tam je 1 gal\u00f3n za $3,50 a dop\u013a\u0148ame n\u00e1dr\u017e. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Neskoro ve\u010der n\u00e1s e\u0161te zastavil policajt. Len tak na rovnej ceste. Netu\u0161il som \u010do chce. Ale bolo to \u010disto prozaick\u00e9. Opodia\u013e nakr\u00facaj\u00fa film. Tak mus\u00edme po\u010dkat. Situ\u00e1ciu operat\u00edvne hl\u00e1si do vysiela\u010dky a p\u00fa\u0161\u0165a n\u00e1s \u010falej. \u0160iroko \u010faleko nikoho, \u017eiadne auto. Asi n\u00e1s pustili a za\u010dali to\u010di\u0165 a\u017e potom. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prich\u00e1dzame na hotel. Je skoro 9:30pm. \u010co budeme jes\u0165? Recep\u010dn\u00e1 n\u00e1m doporu\u010duje bl\u00edzku re\u0161taur\u00e1ciu – Totem Cafe<\/strong>. Rovno tam zavolala nech nezavr\u00fa. Nezavreli, po\u010dkali na n\u00e1s aj ke\u010f u\u017e bolo skoro 10 hod\u00edn ve\u010der a v meste ako Lone Pine<\/strong> u\u017e v\u0161etko sp\u00ed. Bola to jedna z najlep\u0161\u00edch ve\u010der\u00ed na celej ceste. T\u00e1 lep\u0161ia bola a\u017e posledn\u00fd ve\u010der. Ale to sme vtedy e\u0161te nevedeli. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Druh\u00fd, dlho pl\u00e1novan\u00fd vrchol na\u0161ej cesty. Po\u017ei\u010danie plnokrvn\u00e9ho offroadu Jeep Wrangler na cel\u00fd de\u0148 a spoznanie najzauj\u00edmavej\u0161\u00edch miest tohoto \u00fadolia, kde teplota be\u017ene ide na 40 a viac stup\u0148ov a v lete sa tam nechod\u00ed v\u00f4bec.  Po super dni v Zione, sme sa ve\u010der presunuli do meste\u010dka Pahrump, kde sme mali ubytovanie. Cel\u00fd ve\u010der sa […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-156","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cestopisy"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/156","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=156"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/156\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":511,"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/156\/revisions\/511"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=156"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=156"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/slavko.sk\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=156"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}